Lombardy · Winter
Parmigiano Risotto
Absolute white — the mantecatura as protagonist.

History & Background
The 'risotto in bianco' of Po Valley tradition is every cook's litmus test. Without dressing, it shows only the quality of rice, butter and Parmigiano. From Reggio Emilia to Milan, it varies only in proportions.
Ingredients for 4
- 320g Carnaroli rice
- 1 white onion
- ½ glass dry white wine
- 1.2L hot beef broth
- 100g cold butter
- 120g grated Parmigiano Reggiano 30 months
- 20g butter for the soffritto
- Salt, white pepper
Method
- Sweat the finely chopped onion with 20g butter, without colouring.
- Toast the rice for 2–3 minutes, until warm to the touch.
- Deglaze with white wine and let the alcohol evaporate.
- Add hot broth a ladle at a time, for 16–18 minutes.
- Adjust salt halfway through cooking.
- Turn off the heat and rest for 1 minute.
- Manteca off the heat with abundant cold butter and Parmigiano, energetically.
- Serve all'onda with white pepper and a grating of Parmigiano on top.
Wine pairing
Lambrusco di Sorbara or Trento DOC Brut: bubbles and acidity to cut the creaminess.
Common mistakes
- Young Parmigiano (12–18 months): lacks depth. Needs 24–30 months.
- Lukewarm mantecatura: the butter splits. Always off the heat with cold butter.
- Stock cubes: ruin everything, here more than ever.