Saffron Risotto (Risotto alla Milanese)

History & Background

Documented in Milan since 1574, legend has it the dish was born when a young Flemish apprentice to glassmaker Valerio di Profondavalle added saffron (used to colour the Duomo's windows) to rice at his master's daughter's wedding banquet. The yellow conquered everyone and became the city's signature.

Ingredients for 4

• 320g Carnaroli rice
• 1 sachet of saffron threads
• 1.2L hot beef broth
• 1 small white onion
• 60g beef marrow (or 30g butter)
• 100g cold butter, cubed
• 80g grated Parmigiano Reggiano 24 months
• ½ glass dry white wine
• Salt to taste

Method

1. Steep the saffron threads in half a ladle of warm broth for at least 30 minutes.
2. Finely chop the onion and sweat it gently with the marrow (or half the butter) in a heavy pan, without colouring.
3. Add the rice and toast for 2 minutes, until the grains are warm to the touch and slightly translucent.
4. Deglaze with white wine and let the alcohol evaporate completely.
5. Add the hot broth a ladle at a time, stirring occasionally, for 16–18 minutes.
6. Halfway through cooking, stir in the saffron infusion for colour and aroma.
7. Turn off the heat, rest for 1 minute, then mantecare off the heat with cold butter and Parmigiano.
8. Serve all'onda — shake the plate to get that classic glossy surface.

Wine pairing

Franciacorta Brut or Oltrepò Pavese Pinot Nero rosé: bubbles and acid tension cut the buttery creaminess.

Common mistakes

• Dissolving saffron straight into the rice without infusing: colour stays pale and aroma scatters.
• Manteca-ing over heat: the butter splits and the risotto goes greasy instead of creamy.
• Using stock cubes or lukewarm broth: kills the onda and slows cooking.